“What is the one thing we absolutely HAVE to do while we’re here?” my best friend asks the Lyft driver. We’ve arrived in San Antonio, Texas on our annual (two years strong) trip and this 75 degree October weekend already looks promising. For the next three days, my bestie continues to interrogate waitresses and Airbnb hosts and our trip shapes up to be the perfect picture of San Antonian culture. And by San Antonian culture, I mean the kind of charm and thoughtfulness I didn’t expect to see in a state I unfairly dumbed down to tumbleweeds and country music in my head. Granted San Antonio is one of the more liberal cities in Texas, I was still blown away by how welcoming, clean, and lovable it was. Need a cheat sheet to this less popular destination only an hour away from the hustle and bustle of Austin? Here are the top three must-do’s followed by some hand-picked spots for a weekend getaway.
1. Take a taxi
On the river of course! Whether you’re trying to be a hardcore tourist or you just want to get to dinner, the GO Rio shuttles that run up and down the San Antonio River are the best way to soak up the fairy tale magic of this city in a short period of time. You can opt to do the actual guided river boat but I found the shuttles to be more casual. Buy a $16 combo ticket, download it to your phone, and find a shuttle stop anywhere along the river to be slowly and romantically whisked away by a friendly (duh) taxi driver. Then try not to feel like royalty when you float through downtown, I dare you.
2. Go to the Pearl
Honestly the Alamo is nothing to write home about when you compare it to the vintage allure of this revamped brewery complex. The history and subsequent renovation of this place is quite unique - functioning throughout the Prohibition Era, the brewery almost closed down at the turn of the century right as Silver Ventures transformed it from a low-income ghost town to a dynamic place focused on community and story-telling. Now the legacy of the Pearl (named after the foamy bubbles of a fresh brew) mingles pleasantly with a culinary school, a plethora of independently-owned shops, and an ever-expanding foodie scene (seriously, go here for the food). The conscientious effort poured into this place is clear to see - in the nicely arranged central plaza where farmer’s markets and movie screenings are often held and the feeling you get of being transported to the last century as the elegant brick buildings unfold in front of you.
3. See the Missions
Okay fine, you can stop at the Alamo… but only if you continue down the river to see the other 4 less known UNESCO sites (and if you love crowds, because there will be one). My tried and tested recommendation is to bike from mission to mission (rent a bike easily with Swell) - you can explore the less busy and quite stunning parts of the river with the added bonus of a few uphill workouts (to work off the charcuterie board you’ll eat at Cured later). The missions themselves are quiet giants, brimming with history and peppered with picturesque Spanish corners. I’d allot at least three hours one way for your trip and then just Lyft straight to the Stella Public House for a much-deserved cold one.
THE PLAN
Arrive:
Bird or Lime – Get the app, everyone does it and it’s so user friendly and actually safe (SF can’t handle this kind of convenience unfortunately)
Swell bike – You'll have to slalom between Birds downtown, but it's perfect for exploring the outskirts
GO Rio River Taxi – Shuttles go every hour from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. and the $12 ticket is valid for 24 hours. They also have monthly options.
Walk! – San Antonio is such a walkable city - there is no excuse (other than zooming around on an electric Bird) because the River Walk is 100% Instagram-friendly and, oh... did I not mention you can walk around with your drink there?? Walk!
Stay:
$$$$ Hotel Emma* – go here even if you're not staying
$$$ Menger Hotel
$$$ St. Anthony Hotel
$$$ Breckenridge House BnB
$$ A Yellow Rose BnB
$$ Hotel Havana*
$-$$ AirBnB
Eat:
Southerleigh Fine Food
Supper*
Cured*
Botika*
Ocho (in Hotel Havana)
The Granary 'Cue & Brew
Pharm Table
Gwendolyn*
Kimura
Bella on the River
Boudro's
Battalion
Maverick Texas Brasserie
El Mirador*
Madhatters Tea House
Bite
Hot Joy
Drink:
Rumble
Still Golden Social House
The Modernist* – cocktails made entirely to order
Jazz, TX* – this is a must, just go
The Luxury – there are swings overlooking the river
Paramour* – rooftop views, drag brunches, and a Moët vending machine
The Brooklynite*
Havana Bar – go through the tiny door on your way to the bathroom at Ocho
Bar 4141
The Bar
Esquire Tavern
Downstairs* – downstairs... from Esquire Tavern, ask a waiter if you can't find it
Lowcountry – live music in an old house
Francis Bogside
Stella Public House
Bar 1919 – don't give up if you can't find it at first
Shop:
Curio (in Hotel Emma)*
Leighelena
The Tiny Finch*
The Twig Book Shop
La Villita Historic Arts Village
More things to do:
Catch a show at a seriously majestic theatre
Paddle board and ogle the historical buildings along the river banks
Ride a horse-drawn carriage like a true tourist (don't worry you'll know it when you see it)
*An asterisk marks the places I found to be truly unique to San Antonio
Always open to any questions or recommendations I may have missed. Happy planning!
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